Feeding Guidelines

(Calculator from Raw Primal)

When an animal catches a raw prey it is warm. The purpose of feeding a raw diet is to emulate what an animal would eat in nature.

Keep organic Raw Prey in freezer,  frozen. Defrost in refrigerator. Do not defrost outside the refrigerator. If you have only one small pet you may want to defrost slightly to cut into sections with a serrated knife and put back some in the freezer.  Put one half back into the freezer. A completely defrosted raw chubb will last at least 4 days in your refrigerator. Remember we are trying to emulate raw prey in nature. Do not to feed your animals cold or hot foods. You can warm it up by placing it in a baggie in hot water until it is body temperature.I find putting it in a little plastic bag and letting in sit in some hot water really easy.  I squish it so that there is more surface to get warm. Do not leave fresh raw meat in your animals bowl for an extended period.  Put it down…if they don’t eat it in 20 minutes-remove.  Note:  Many people feed their cats raw turkey or other human grade meat thinking that they are doing the best for their animals.  Human  grade does not contain, bones and organs.  Feeding your animal raw meat only without bones and organs can severely and even morbidly compromise their health.

DANGER: FEEDING JUST HUMAN GRADE MEAT without bones and organs – LACK OF NUTRITIONAL BALANCE: (Dr. Becker) In my practice I see a growing number of patients with skeletal issues, organ degeneration and endocrine abnormalities as a result of dietary deficiencies of essential fatty acids, calcium, trace minerals and other nutrients. Well-meaning pet parents are trying to feed species-appropriate food to their dogs and cats, but what they’re missing is the need for nutritional balance. Feeding your pet a hunk of meat isn’t the same as if your dog or cat lived in the wild, hunting and eating her own prey. Read more…

If you companion animal is new to raw food read the Transitioning Guidelines  Some animals just jump right into it.  Others need a slow transition by mixing raw prey with their conventional food.  Note: Pick up all dry food for cats and throw it away! Read Dr. Becker advice

Our products are what is called COMPONENT PRODUCTS. Each component maintains its own integrity.  We do not mix our fresh vegetables with our fresh raw meat. We feel that the interaction of the two may have a synergy that affects the happiness of the individual components.  We recommend that each component is mixed together fresh at feeding time.

BASICS:  Raw meat (chicken, organ, bones) plus a veggie buddy.

After you pet has adjust to 100% raw meat, organs, bones (without grain or vegetable fillers) add our Raw Prey USDA organic human grade “raw” Veggie Buddy.  Veggie buddy is already pre-crushed since your animals don’t have molars to crush the cellulose. We crush it for them.  Add a 1/2 cube for cats and 1-2 for Dogs, depending on the size, to the raw prey at every meal simply to emulate what is inside a raw prey in the wild digestive track. Don’t fuss over amounts…use your common sense! Our recipes for dogs are based on 75 percent meat/organs/bone and 25 percent vegetables/fruits. For cats it’s 88 percent meat/organs/bone and 12 percent veggies. We’ve found these ratios work well for most healthy pets.(Dr. Becker).

In order to maintain a detoxified condition and a worm maintenance, add a bit of Raw Prey Animal Detox and Maintenance Formula. Mix into raw prey meat and veggie buddy at every meal. It also includes chorella and spirulina both high in chlorophyll.  And there you have it!  A few times a week add a capsule of Omega 3 sources such as cod liver oil, skate oil, fish oil.  This is a good mainstay.  Add some variety meats or fish from time to time…organic only or wild. An egg yolk mixed with raw prey 2 times a week is very beneficial as well.

For Dogs: Feed approximately 2-3% of your dog’s weight daily, and split this between two meals. For example, a 50 lb. dog would need ½ (8 oz) to ¾ (12oz) of a lb. PER MEAL. That is about 3/4 or one buddy per day for a 50lb dog. A very active or working dog may need more. A less active “couch-potato” dog may need less. Once again, don’t fuss over amounts…use your common sense!

For Cats: Feed approximately 2-3% of your cat’s weight daily, and split this between two meals. A 10 lb. cat would receive 2 – 3 ounces per meal approximately 6 oz or ¼ of a Raw Prey buddy per day). A Raw Prey 24 oz buddy would last 4 day. Again, this will depend on the individual cat’s activity level and metabolism.

Puppies, Kittens & pregnant or nursing females eat more!
Feed at least 5% of body weight daily (about ¼ lb per 10 lbs. of body weight). This can be split into at least 2 and preferably 3 meals per day.

The length of your pet’s transition process to raw food will depend on their overall health, digestive issues, and how “finicky” they may be.

A healthy dog with no signs of digestive issues (chronic vomiting or diarrhea/loose stools) could be transitioned within a week by just gradually adding more raw food and less of the original food to each meal.

Cats may take longer since they tend to be more discriminating about their food and can become habituated to dry food in particular. Cats on dry food only should be transitioned to 2 meals per day of canned food first, then slowly transitioned to raw starting with as little as ¼ – ½ teaspoon of raw mixed in with their canned food and gradually increasing the amount of raw over the course of 2-3 weeks or more.

Some cats may prefer the raw on its own, and you can offer them a teaspoon or so before offering their regular meal to see if they show interest.

Animals with digestive issues will need a very gradual transition. It may be best to very lightly cook the food for the first week also, then gradually cook it less and less until you are feeding raw. Start with no more than 1/8 of one meal as raw or lightly cooked raw, and increase gradually over the course of at least 2 weeks. We recommend Mercola pet enzymes for a while until they get back their own enzyme abilities.

No dry foods for cats. It is harmful and causes all sorts of problems as it lacks moisture. Cats will hardly need any water if they get the proper raw prey moist and natural food. Pick up the dry food and throw it away.. Cats should not have access to food all day long. This is not a Caribbean Cruise.

Only “organic” Dehydrated and Freeze-Dried Alternatives

Freeze-dried formulas are very light weight, and so are great for travelling, but tend to me more expensive than dehydrated, so they are used mostly for cats and small dogs. Dehydrated food is more expensive than dry kibble, but not by a lot (around a dollar per day for a 40 pound dog), and it is much healthier than dry kibble. Unless you buy wild type meat, like deer, elk, etc. buy organic. Raw meat from Confined Animal Feeding Operations (CAFO) is poison. Don’t be fooled. Make sure it is organic or near wild.

Variety and Rotation
Rotation is highly recommended. Rotate the raw formula you feed (unless otherwise directed for your companion who may be ill). But you don’t have to rotate every day. Cats, for example, like a stable source. with intermittent change. Just as with any type of food used, feeding a variety of protein sources can help optimize nutrition and wellness. A fish oil capsule a few times a week; a little yogurt for probiotics and do add Raw Prey Detox and Maintenance formula – a small amount every meal.  We recommend Mercola’s Pet Enzymes during the transition until your animal regains his original use of his own natural enzymes. Organic is a must for ill animals.

FEEDING YOUR SENIOR PET: Aging pets need more protein than their younger counterparts, and the quality of the protein is of paramount importance. The more digestible and assimilable the protein, and the higher the moisture content of the food, the easier it is for aging organs to process.

The healthiest foods for most pets, regardless of age, are whole, raw, unprocessed, and in their natural form – and this includes animal meat, which should be the foundation of your dog’s or cat’s diet throughout his life. Foods that have not been dehydrated or processed are the most assimilable for your pet’s body. These foods are biologically appropriate. All the moisture in the food remains in the food. READ MORE FROM DR. BECKER on feeding your senior pet.